The Thaw and St. Lazarus Fight Over a Date - 17D

The Thaw and St. Lazarus Fight Over a Date: 17D* / 14ymedio, Orlando Palma
Posted on December 17, 2015

14ymedio, Orlando Palma, 17 December 2015 — Dawn broke, this Thursday,
to hundreds of pilgrims and promise keepers in the sanctuary of Rincón,
south of Havana. The front pages of the world's newspapers celebrated
the first anniversary of the announcement of the thaw in relations
between Cuba and the United States, while the people of the island lit
candles to a figure with sores and crutches. The 17th of December has
been imposed as a date of diplomacy, but in this land it is still the
day of Saint Lazarus, the saint of the sick and marginalized.

Ramón Zulueta is one of the pilgrims who waited for midnight in the
crowded chapel where some pray to the Catholic image, while others call
it Babalu Aye. A few months ago Ramón watched his only son depart for
Ecuador, a son who is now a part of the thousands of Cubans stranded on
the border between Costa Rica and Nicaragua. "I come to ask the saint to
help him," he explains to 14ymedio, holding in his hands a small wooden
airplane he has brought as an offering.

A couple of teenagers who have come from Matanzas pray very near the
altar, asking that "they won't close it," in reference to the possible
elimination of the Cuban Adjustment Act that grants the island's
residents immigration privileges to enter the United States. "I already
told the 'old man' that if he helps me get there, from that side I am
going to send to raise a life-size image," promises the young man,
kissing his fist.

A few yards away is a couple accompanied by their young children, among
them a baby of barely six months. "We want a healthy and prosperous
2016," asks the woman, who runs a private diner in the nearby town of
Santiago de las Vegas. "For us, not much has changed," she said, when
asked about effects of the reestablishment of relations between
Washington and Havana, but added, "something will happen for us now."

Next to the color purple and garments made from jute sacks to please the
leprous saint, some of those gathered wear clothes printed with the
stars and stripes from the country to the north. One of the most obvious
transformations of the last 12 months is the proliferation of Uncle
Sam's ensign without triggering the official repudiation of years past.

Cuban-Americans are also present at the scene. "Now it is easier to
travel," says Victoria, the daughter of exiled parents who have never
returned to the island, but to whom she will take back a collection of
photos of "the places they loved." The measures adopted by Barack Obama
to ease the sending of remittances have greatly helped the oldest
members of her family, "who are on this side," she said.

Among the avalanche of diplomatic statements and meetings between the
two governments, the Cuban people try to capitalize on the most
practical accords, which so far "are few," reflects Victoria. The
increase in the amount of remittances and the expansion to 12 of the
number of reasons Americans can travel to Cuba are, right now, "the most
popular measures."

"It has gone very well for me," says Esteban, a young man of 32 who
works as a waiter in a private restaurant in the Playa district in
Havana. "A lot of yumas come to eat now and they leave good money," he
comments. For Esteban, the best part of this year of reestablishment of
relations between the perennial enemies is, "the custom of leaving a 10%
tip is sneaking into Cuba," he says smiling.

Early in the morning a man arrives dragging an enormous stone on his
back. The sun's rays barely penetrate the shadows all around. It is
estimated that every year more than 15,000 pilgrims arrive in less than
40 hours in this village in Boyeros to ask for better health or more
fortune. The majority are very poor people, although the new emerging
middle class can also be seen.

"Last year I came on foot, three miles, but this time I made a greater
sacrifice. I paid a Panataxi from Central Havana to the junction," jokes
a man who sports a shirt with Barack Obama's face. "I am asking Saint
Lazarus to enlighten us and open the ways of this country, because if
not I don't think I will spend next 17 December here," he says, while
placing a red candle beside others already lit.

Family members of prisoners also pour in. "My son has already 'pulled'
five years and he has three left," says a lady who prefers not to give
her name and who carries in her hands a picture of an old man with his
two dogs licking his wounds. "I come to ask Babalu to open the prison
bars for my son and for so many young people who all they have done is
try to survive in this country."

In the sanctuary some hold hands and pray quietly. Others take out their
phones and cameras to take pictures. Yassiel, 27, has filmed a dozen
short videos at the entrance to the place with the promise keepers
carrying heavy wooden arms or legs. "It there were a wife zone here, I
would load them up right away," he comments.

However, internet connections are very far away from the traditional
sanctuary that seems frozen in time. Neither Barack Obama, nor Raul
Castro, nor even the pious Saint Lazarus have managed to allow Cubans to
fully enjoy the miracle of connectivity this year. "No man lives only on
promises," comments Yassiel, and it is unclear if he is saying it to the
image of this man with sores and a sad face who, today, has reclaimed
his 17D.

*Translator's note: Like Americans say "9-11" instead of September 11,
2001, Cubans say "17D" instead of 17 December 2014, the day Barack Obama
and Raul Castro jointly announced the restoration of relations between
the United States and Cuba.

Source: The Thaw and St. Lazarus Fight Over a Date: 17D* / 14ymedio,
Orlando Palma | Translating Cuba -
http://translatingcuba.com/the-thaw-and-st-lazarus-fight-over-a-date-17d-14ymedio-orlando-palma/